
The train line from Prijepolje, in southern Serbia, to Podgorica, in Montenegro, is one of the most dramatic in Europe. You go through countless tunnels, skirting the precipice of one of the world's deepest canyons. The mountains here are indescribably rugged, barely cultivable and scarcely inhabited. Here and there in the midst of this gray wilderness of barren rock, you see a lonely hut surrounded by grassy plots cleared of stones for the grazing of sheep. But you see no people. The landscape is far too inhospitable.Gradually, the mountains give way, and the train descends along a green river to the fertile plain upon which sits Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. As soon as you disembark from the train, which is full of jolly young holiday-goers...